Qaysari Bazaar, Erbil
Qaysari Bazaar — Bazaari Qaysari in Kurdish — is one of the most authentic and atmospheric covered markets in the Middle East. Located at the base of the ancient Erbil Citadel mound, it's a dense labyrinth of covered lanes and shops that has served as the city's main market for centuries. Walking through Qaysari is one of the best free experiences in Erbil — entirely unscripted, genuinely bustling, and deeply rooted in local life.
💛Gold and jewellery
Gold is the heart of Qaysari Bazaar. The gold section — a dedicated cluster of glittering shops — is one of the largest gold markets in the Kurdish region. Kurdish and Iraqi gold jewellery is typically 21-karat and sold by weight. Jewellery is exquisitely crafted and prices are competitive. The gold market is one of the busiest areas of the bazaar, especially on Thursday afternoons (the eve of the Kurdish weekend) when weddings and celebrations drive demand.
🌶️Spices, herbs and dry goods
The spice section of Qaysari is visually spectacular — towering sacks of vivid-coloured spices, dried herbs, seeds, and pulses. Saffron (Erbil is close to saffron-growing areas), sumac, za'atar, dried rosebuds, and dozens of other spices fill the air with competing aromas. This is the place to buy spices to bring home — prices are a fraction of what you'd pay in Europe, and quality is excellent.
🧣Textiles, clothing and crafts
Qaysari has a large section dedicated to Kurdish traditional clothing — the distinctive pantaloon-style trousers, embroidered jackets, and headscarves of Kurdish folk dress. This is the authentic version of what you might find in tourist shops elsewhere. Fabrics and tailors are also present. Kurdish handicrafts — woven carpets, ceramics, and decorative items — can be found in the more touristy sections.
🥬Fresh food and provisions
Part of the bazaar transitions into a more conventional fresh food market — vegetables, fresh herbs, dairy, eggs, bread, and local produce. This section is less photographed but equally alive — a working market for local Erbilis doing their weekly shopping. It's particularly good in the morning when produce is freshest.
⏰Opening hours and practical tips
The bazaar is generally open Saturday to Thursday. Friday (the main day off) sees most stalls closed. Morning visits (8–11am) are good for the fresh food section and less crowded. Afternoons are busier and more atmospheric. Photography is welcome in most areas but always ask before photographing people.
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Frequently asked questions
- What is Qaysari Bazaar in Erbil?
- Qaysari Bazaar (Bazaari Qaysari) is one of the oldest covered markets in the Middle East, at the base of the Erbil Citadel mound. It's a labyrinth of lanes selling gold jewellery, spices, textiles, Kurdish crafts, fresh produce and household goods — a working market that has served Erbil for centuries.
- What should I buy at Qaysari Bazaar?
- The top buys are: gold jewellery (21-karat, sold by weight, very competitive prices), spices (saffron, sumac, za'atar — spectacular selection and cheap), and Kurdish traditional clothing or crafts. Fresh produce is also excellent and cheap.
- When is Qaysari Bazaar open?
- Generally open Saturday to Thursday, roughly 8am to 8pm. Most shops close on Friday (the main day off in Iraqi Kurdistan). Morning is best for the fresh food section; afternoons are busier and more lively.
- How do I get to Qaysari Bazaar?
- Qaysari Bazaar is at the base of the Erbil Citadel mound, in central Erbil. Any taxi driver will know it — ask for 'Bazaar Qaysari' or 'Bazaari'. Combine it with a visit to the Citadel directly above for a half-day of sightseeing.
- Can you bargain at Qaysari Bazaar?
- Yes, bargaining is expected and normal at most stalls in Qaysari Bazaar, particularly for crafts, textiles, and goods aimed at tourists. Gold is sold at a fixed rate by weight (the gold price is posted publicly). Spices and fresh food have generally fixed prices too.